SV8000HD- Dead or Keeps Booting - Free To Air TV Forum, FTA Keys and Downloads, Dish Network, Nagravision 3

FlaRon · #1 (**permalink**) 15th September 2009, 04:45 AM

Much of the below information is from others who have had problems and solved their problems. Full credit is given to the many FTA Testers who have tried to help others.

The Sonicview 8000HD has had some problems and some feel that you will have a problem. The only question is when....

Many testers have had receivers die or the problem of booting over and over.

Booting Over and Over

One cause of booting over and over has been said to be a bad channel list of satinfo file.

Try:
Toggle OFF the rear switch.
Disconnect the ihub and all satellite/antenna cable in
Toggle ON and see if you boot up ok.
Note: If the receiver keeps re-booting toggle it OFF over-night then try again the next day.

If boots up with no issue:
Factory Default
Load the latest Factory File (not ihub Factory File)
Load Satinfo File again
Load the latest ihub release (providing your ihub was updated to Version 1.4).
Set time... Scan in Satellites... Toggle OFF receiver and connect the Ethernet Cable to the ihub plus the satellite/antenna cables...Toggle ON..

Keeps on Booting or Dead

The problem seems to be (in most cases) the C-10 and possibly the C-25 Capacitors on the power board. Here are some post:

Quote:

The reason the these caps fail is simple.

In 45+ years of electronics and electronics design, I NEVER . . . . .NEVER seen a alum eletrolytic cap fail in such a short time as the ones in the SV8000 did. They only lasted about two years!

It's not heat, over voltage, over-current, stress, etc. . . . they are just cheap, poor quality, hence low reliability parts.

Quote:

I purchased one of the first SV-8000 units. It has operated without any problems until yesterday. It started rebooting and then finally shut down completely. Since I do more reading than posting, I went to RatShack and got two 1000 uf 35V caps and replaced both C10 and C24 on the power supply board. One note: to anyone doing this, make sure you observe the polarity of the caps. Plugged it back in and it is now working as a true FTA receiver once again. The caps that I removed were only rated at 10 volts, so these 35v caps should last one heck of a lot longer. My thank you goes to whoever figured out that the C10 was the weak point in the power supply. Thank you sir....One last thing: the caps that I removed showed no sign of breaking down. No oozing or swelling of the cap so don't let the good looks fool you. They were bad!

Quote:

Add my name to the list as another guy happy to find this thread for a 20 minute fix to replace C10 with a 1000uf 25v 105 to bring a dead box back to life. V1 box I've had since the day before the first beta file release, first problem with the box, picture was frozen, after a hard reboot she was dead. Nice easy fix...

Quote:

You can tell which way the caps go in. The polarity is marked on the board with a " ) " mark outside the circle where the capacitor mounts for the side of the capacitor with the stripe (Look at the old capacitor and the marking on the board before removal and you will see what I am talking about). I would not pull and twist on the old capacitor, you could damage the board. Use solder wick (desoldering braid as it is also called) and remove the solder from around the leads. You can then pull the capacitor right out and install the new one.

Removing the old capacitors.....

Quote:

Get a roll of solder wick. It is braided copper that you place on the existing solder and then place your soldering iron on top of that. When the solder melts it will "wick" up into the braided copper. When you see it turn silver remove the solder wick and the lead should then be all nice and clean and ready to pull out of the hole.

How do you solder the capacitors to the board? Good question. A WEB search will give you video's. Here is one video:

Code:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

What capacitors to buy? (Original C10 is a 1000uf 10v 85 degree- I believe)
Testers are buying:
1000uf 25 volts and 105 degree radial-lead DC caps
1000uf 35 volts and 105 degree radial-lead DC caps

Cost: Under $4.00 for two capacitors

Note: Radio Sack has 1000uf 35 volts 85 degree. Myself I would go with the 105 degree meaning they withstand higher temperatures.

Now if you just want to buy another power board contact Sonicview. The cost is about $35.00

Attachment shows the C-10 and C-25 capacitors before and after:
Bottom of the photo is the front
The top of the photo is the back

Left side is before the repair
Right side is after the repair

FlaRon · #2 (**permalink**) 15th September 2009, 12:25 PM

A friend had the dreaded re-booting over and over problem.

I believe he might have loaded the ihub factory file (just because it came out). Anyway once the cables were removed it kept rebooting but after toggled OFF for 24 hours and then ON the receiver booted ok.

Then... Factory Default...Factory File (not ihub)...Loaded Satinfo File..etc, etc as indicated above.

For two days the receiver has been working correctly. There might be a C-10 capacitor going bad and will deal with that possibly in the future.

A side note is that the time also kept being wrong. Programs scheduled would not record. Seems that just by turning off (not toggle off) the receiver the time would change. Could have been something in the ihub factory as the time has stayed correct the last 2 days. But..but.. in past days the time would go back to 01Jan2000 when toggled OFF so that could indicate a C-10 or C-24 problem (power board).

camvic · #3 (**permalink**) 15th September 2009, 08:37 PM

FlaRon you're perfectly right in your post except the time issue.
Every time you turn it OFF it will loose current time and date as it doesn't have a battery to keep them going.
That's what they all do.

fxe · #4 (**permalink**) 1st October 2009, 04:16 AM

i had the same problem with rebooting,replaced cap 10&24 good to go.but the problem that i have now is that i do not get any signal Q.i tested the cable at the reciever by bird dog meter ,getting signal Q AT 90%.WHEN I CONNECT THE CABLE TO THE RECIEVER I GET NO SIGNAL.PLEASE HELP ME WITH THIS. THANKS.

wildside22 · #5 (**permalink**) 1st October 2009, 05:34 AM

on the sv800 its the second cable connect on the back,not the first one.just a thought.

FlaRon · #6 (**permalink**) 5th October 2009, 02:38 AM

Do not know your satellites....

But when looking for the 61.5 signal quality change to transponder 12239 and you will see Quality and a lock on the satellite.

staboonta · #7 (**permalink**) 8th October 2009, 12:55 AM

I had a similar problem in that the LED stayed "Booting" forever. With the help of this thread I replaced Capasitors C10, C11, C14 and C24 with replacement Capacitors 1000uf 35v and IT WORKED! It runs MUCH, MUCH cooler now!

I should mention the replacement Capacitors are much bigger in actual size than the originals (at least three times the size in height and twice the size in width).

You sure have to know how to solder on a circuit board and use a solder wick to remove the old Capacitors. I could not tell either from appearance the old ones were bad. I read somewhere on this forum someone said replace C10, 11, 14, 24...so that's what I did. It was probably overkill but it worked! ($1.50 a piece)

This Forum is Great!

Let's Go BUF FA LO! (I can't help myself ...sorry...if only I could replace a couple of BUFFALO BILLS with new ones that WORK!)

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